One fashion capital down. Three to go. That’s a wrap on New York Fashion Week, and we’re only just coming up for air after digesting what the designers who show their wares within The Big Apple have delivered us for the Spring 2024 season.
It was Stuart Vevers who kick-started the festivities, commemorating his first decade as Coach creative director and reflected back on his early days in New York for inspiration for his collection. Peter Do was soon making his highly-anticipated debut as creative director of Helmut Lang, followed by Ralph Lauren’s grand return to the NYFW schedule which had us stepping into a world of romance and artistry and full of signature Ralph Lauren aesthetics – from wild western Americana to dazzling evening wear. At Proenza Schouler, a new monogram was introduced ever-so-subtly on embossed belt bags and sweaters during a show which oozed minimalism. Catherine Holstein created a collection that was sharp and ferocious at Khaite, with oversized blazers, cinched-waist dressed and color-block accessories. Dion Lee took us to work (on a construction site) for his Spring 2024 collection, with garments sporting utility details, tool-belt pockets and heavy-duty boots. Ulla Johnson presented a vibrant collection featuring painterly printed by artist Shara Hughes while apocalyptic chic was on the agenda at Jason Wu. We got florals galore at Michael Kors, set against the picturesque backdrop of NYC’s East River as models like Vittoria Ceretti and Natasha Poly helped showcase Kors’ 60s-inspired collection grounded in white and tan with gold and blush accents. Form-fitting fabrics, naked dresses and high-shine ruled the LaQuan Smith runway while Tory Burch took us to infinity and beyond, with shimmering metallics and space-age silhouettes.
Need we go on?
Therefore, without further adieu, here are theFashionSpot’s hits and misses of New York Fashion Week Spring 2024, all in accordance with our unfiltered forum members.
HIT | Ralph Lauren
“A very confident and current show from Mr. Lauren. I am here for this!” [reese06]
“Great collection indeed. He is a league of his own. I love the denim work. This seems to be more fashion, edgy than usual which is always a welcome.” [TaylorBinque]
“My highlight of NYFW, without a shadow of a doubt. I was beyond excited for Ralph Lauren to return to the schedule, and Lord knows the calendar needs him. What a truly gorgeous collection, the most perfect blend of signature RL signatures but with an updated touch. I’m in awe… loved it!” [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Ralph Lauren Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Altuzarra
“Prada/MiuMiu and Simone Rocha had a child…” [Lola701]
“When he used to copy Tom Ford I had high hopes that he would develop a signature along that aesthetic. But all he ended up developing were his copying skills. Yikes. This is so derivative.” [GoldenPetals]
“I guess Raf Simons’ take on Prada is inspiring the kids!” [fenty]
See all the looks from the Altuzarra Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Prabal Gurung
“Pretty damn good. Fine dressmaking elevates even the most challenging looks. That gold plissé one-shoulder number with the coffee crystalline skirt is a vision.” [Nimsay]
“Love a lot the fabric choices in all of this. They’re rich, textural, play with taste in an interesting way and still look luxe.” [Cocteau Stone]
“I absolutely love the textural diversity here and his SA roots are clearly being celebrated.” [LANZO_358]
See all the looks from the Prabal Gurung Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Collina Strada
“Available soon in the dumpsters near you.” [avonlea002]
“I feel like this brand is here to troll the industry.” [Urban Stylin]
“Barely stitched together nothing clothes. Ghastly silhouettes.” [Nimsay]
See all the looks from the Collina Strada Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Jason Wu Collection
“Look 9 is begging me to be part of my wardrobe! So chic! This is so far the best collection of NYFW. It’s very easy to wear while having the right touch of risks that his client would want.” [Lola701]
“Actually a very precise, great collection from him. I think at the beginning he grew too fast. Seems like stepping back has done good to him creatively. I like the styling as well, which really elevate the clothes.” [TaylorBinque]
“One of the best collections to come from NYFW, without a shadow of a doubt. Always been a fan of Jason Wu in all honesty, and think this collection is rather beautiful from start to finish. I just love love LOVE the flow and cohesion of the collection. Very much a fan of this!” [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Jason Wu Collection Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | LaQuan Smith
“Such a waste of leather. Nothing really fits right, even if he is going for the p*rno-chic kind of look.” [Cocteau Stone]
“Had the fit and construction been on point, this collection would’ve been an actual genuine slay. *gag*” [Lady Junon]
“Listen, nobody loves a flash and gloss more than me, but if you’re gonna go for the Versace crown you better bring some damn good ideas or you’re gonna be TOO all-style-no-substance.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the LaQuan Smith Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Tory Burch
“This is surprisingly good. Doesn’t feel like Tory, which is what’s confusing about it, even though it feels a little derivative. But still, actually some pieces I’d covet.” [Joromana]
“Love it, I can see myself wearing a lot from this.” [liberty33r1b]
“I do love that semi-sheer black coat with a flower pattern on it, the construction of the collar is a neat touch.” [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Tory Burch Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Dion Lee
“There was no need for an Alexander Wang 2.0.” [yslforever]
“His mind is totally in the gym. The more buffed he is, the more uninteresting his collections are.” [jeanclaude]
“Dion Lee thinks he ate. This 2017 Mugler/Balmain stuff is really tired and dated. A touch of Versace too.” [Nimsay]
See all the looks from the Dion Lee Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | 3.1 Phillip Lim
“It’s very New York. Practical and pleasant.” [GoldenPetals]
“Such a fabulous show. Color, movement, texture. A little something for everyone but not so much so it feels unfocused. The Lim-isms with his use of military/parka cottons, I love it!” [TianCouture]
“I quite enjoy this. Love the last few looks. He always make khaki work.” [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the 3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Proenza Schouler
“It’s a snoozefest. There is nothing special about this.” [Bugsy]
“This is pure nonsense. This brand is pure nonsense. No identity at all. Anonymous clothes nobody remembers that could have been designed by anybody. 20 years of blending in the background of fashion.” [Lola701]
“Would it KILL New York designers to try something unique? There’s great potential in this kind of minimalism, but their seeming TERROR at trying anything new is precisely why I’ve always thought this brand was little more than hype.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Proenza Schouler Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Christian Siriano
“Burn it all.” [WAVES]
“Everything looks so cheap and unflattering.” [thatsfierce]
“Cheap with really sloppy cuts. Horrible. He survives on personality and should not be offering any advice on Project Runway.” [Bugsy]
See all the looks from the Christian Siriano Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Brandon Maxwell
“Strangely, I kind of like this collection.” [LadyJunon]
“Another firm highlight of NYFW for me. I thought the belt detailing was fabulous, love the silhouette of just about every single look and the sheer fabrics. To me, this feels far more elevated than what else has been on display this week. The opening dress is stunning!” [vogue28]
“It’s certainly beautiful and looks well made.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Brandon Maxwell Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Tibi
“In a different setting, mood and tone, this could have really worked.” [TaylorBinque]
“The runway location isn’t appealing, makes everything look so minute in presence and also so washed out.” [Cocteau Stone]
“With collections as bland as this I might as well just look at my window and watch the weeds slowly grow in my garden.” [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Tibi Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Khaite
“This is stunning actually. And YES there is something very Alber Elbaz/Lanvin about it. It’s that cinematic starkness. The fabrics really are the star of the show. Best thing in NYFW! [GoldenPetals]
“Finally a NYFW designer who isn’t afraid to work with and spend on luxe fabric.” [Fulton St Critique]
“I didn’t know Catherine Holstein have it in them to show like this. Quite enjoying it actually. A departure from typical NY shows. The clothes themselves are very Lanvin by Alber. I don’t think it’s a bad thing perse. Definitely love the luxe fabric selection.” [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Khaite Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Rodarte
“Glorified mall clothes. What on earth happened to this label?” [GoldenPetals]
“Sorry girls, but the vacancy for Giambattista Valli is already taken…” [jeanclaude]
“Just because they show this crap during fashion week, does not make it fashion.” [90sFan]
See all the looks from the Rodarte Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Coach
“This is such an underwhelming collection to celebrate your tenth anniversary at the brand. Everything looks so ill-fitting. I know it’s Coach but still, elevate it.” [THD96]
“Some looks have left me completely traumatized.” [Ruito]
“A giant bore, once upon a time Stuart Vevers actually made some effort to bring some much needed luxury to this tacky brand but by now it’s clear that he’s just happy to wallow in the blandness and dumpiness of this household of the outlet world.” [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Coach Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Ulla Johnson
“Her collections are always so enjoyable to look at.” [LadyJunon]
“I always enjoy Ulla Johnson’s collections. Very chic, feminine and non-fussy, shes like the second coming of Diane von Furstenberg.” [Urban Stylin]
“Such a cute collection, in a really good way! The fabrics are insanely lush, the silhouettes are also pretty gorgeous and seem very comfortable. I still believe this is how Chloé should look like.” [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Ulla Johnson Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Anna Sui
“Just no. No.” [sanssoleil]
“Yet another messy and redundant Sui collection. Amazed she’s still in the game, who wears her?” [zoom]
“Never been a fan. I feel like she never really evolved into anything more than ‘playful’ and ‘whimsy’ dresses. Developing a signature aesthetic takes more than repetition.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Anna Sui Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Carolina Herrera
“My favorite New York collection!” [liberty33r1b]
“It’s all just so classy, ladylike and glamorous that I cannot help but to instantly drawn to Wes Gordon’s Carolina Herrera collections each and every season. Very much a fan!” [vogue28]
“I can’t bring myself to dislike this because it’s just so professionally made and beautiful.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Carolina Herrera Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Gabriela Hearst
“The construction of these garments are screaming for help.” [dancv]
“A strange feat being able to make something look not only so slouchy, but incredibly stiff and boxy at the same time. Props to yah Gabriela.” [Cocteau Stone]
“Thanks God she’s no longer at Chloé.” [Koibito]
See all the looks from the Gabriela Hearst Spring 2024 collection.
HIT | Michael Kors Collection
“Oh it will sell like hot cakes.” [GivenchyAddict]
“Michael Kors is like clockwork. Another perfectly tailored collection with perfect fabric choices and perfect colors. Not a single stitch out of place. This sort of megalithic hyper-refinement. MK may be the greatest to do it since Ralph Lauren.” [Nimsay]
“Michael Kors is just so much of a NYFW staple that I am automatically programmed to adore each and every collection of his. This season is certainly no different, as it’s just all so easy on the eye, 100% wearable and executed to perfection. The colour palette, as always, is fabulous.” [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Michael Kors Collection Spring 2024 collection.
MISS | Helmut Lang
“Pretentious and forgettable, he won’t stay there for long.” [avonlea002]
“It doesn’t look good at all. The yellow and magenta are fighting for dominance and the cuts looked so matronly and sexless. No sophistication or sensuality at all.” [LadyJunon]
“RIP Helmut Lang. Will be seeing this on the discount rack in no time. What a disappointment.” [RMDV]
See all the looks from the Helmut Lang Spring 2024 collection.
