That’s a wrap. Paris Fashion Week rounded out Fashion Month Spring 2022 after what has been a celebration of what the industry’s finest have to offer.
It was a 60s revival at Christian Dior with models parading Maria Grazia Chiuri’s reinterpretation of Marc Bohan designs. Before the Eiffel Tower, Saint Laurent served up big shoulders, asymmetric cuts and sky-high stilettos. Olivier Rousteing celebrated 10 years at Balmain with help from Naomi Campbell and Carla Bruni.
The fashion pack soon flocked to the banks of the Seine for Gabriela Hearst’s first physical show since taking over the helm of Chloe. Meanwhile at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson delivered his sexiest and most abstract collection to date. Demna Gvasalia surprised everyone with Balenciaga’s latest offering by collaborating with The Simpsons, which even included a cameo from Anna Wintour.
Virginie Viard revived the spirit of the 90s at Chanel insisting models show joy as they sashayed down the catwalk. Miuccia Prada marked the return of the low-rise miniskirt at Miu Miu. Not even a climate protester was enough to distract from the drama of Louis Vuitton‘s latest collection. Closing out the week in style, 44 designers paid tribute to Alber Elbaz with a truly touching AZ Factory show.
Here are all the hits and misses of Paris Fashion Week Spring 2022. Well at least according to our forum members.
PFW Spring 2022 Hits and Misses
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HIT: Chanel
"One of Virginie Viard's strongest collections." [TZ001]
"The models are really showing personality on the runway, I love that! The clothes are probably one of her strongest yet maybe it’s because I love the 90s." [charles01]
"The set evoking Chanel during the 90s was fabulous, especially with the addition of the models twirling and showing us some personality, it all felt like a breath of fresh air despite harking back to the past. My favorite looks from Chanel collections are always the tweed numbers and this is no exception." [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Chanel collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Givenchy
"Worst show of the season. Legit, if I see someone wearing this on the street I'd feel bad for them." [RedSmokeRise]
"This is just Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy gone TERRIBLY wrong with a sprinkle of some ideas from Ghesquière's greatest days and with what looks like poor craftsmanship in lots of looks." [mistress_f]
"This is atrocious. Clare Waight Keller where are you? Come back!" [Ruito]
See all the looks from the Givenchy collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Christian Dior
"Hallelujah, this was such a step in the right direction. No bohemian vibes, no socks on the runway, no logos, very minimal jewelry and a return to the Dior (albeit Marc Bohan) silhouette. Bravo." [Frederic01]
"I don't mind this at all, love the plain sets and the colorblocking as well as the animal splattered pieces, those are going to be signature pieces." [Urban Stylin]
"I really like this. It's fun, the way she mixes her messages with the clothes feels natural. The collection is very pop. It's a mix of Pierre Cardin space age and Dior by YSL years with the last few looks. Also, love that this collection doesn't overload with logos." [THD96]
See all the looks from the Christian Dior collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Chloe
"Clothes from a hippie street market mixed with some generic urban garments. It does not look expensive at all." [jeanclaude]
"Horrid. Absolutely horrid. Like I've said before...her ECO shtick is so obnoxious because there's nothing 'sustainable' about making such useless clothes. These clothes have zero personality. Everything here is so freakin' dull and dreary." [dior_couture1245]
"It's like she has no idea what she's doing so she's just designing two Gabriela Hearst collections every season now." [Nomar]
See all the looks from the Chloe collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Louis Vuitton
"I love this. This is one of my favorite collections of PFW. I love that in the season that we see designers referenced the 90s/early 2000s, he decided to go back to the French neoclassical. Nicolas Ghesquière is the best designer when it comes to the art of balancing between high-fashion concepts and commerce." [THD96]
"This, for me, is the best collection he’s done for Louis Vuitton for a while. It’s easier to see the great pieces here and there and I think they tamed down the styling a little bit." [GreyVetiver]
"I like the way he's consistent about his vision. It’s definitely self-referential without being nostalgic (I’m tired of nostalgia). There are great pieces as usual in his Vuitton collections: the blouses, the big cargo skirts and some of the blazers." [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Louis Vuitton collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Valentino
"What a waste of resources. Someone explain to me please what’s the theme of this collection. If there is one." [WAVES]
"I don't want to be around these characters he's created. He wants to offer everything under the sun for a lifestyle, but it ends up looking less and less desirable." [RedSmokeRise]
"Laughable. Everyone who thinks he is better than Maria Grazia Chiuri should see this. There is no way they still have clients that used to buy collections designed by Valentino himself." [avonlea002]
See all the looks from the Valentino collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Balmain
"Olivier Rousteing has always been rather hit and miss for me, but I'm able to admit this collection is a total smash hit. Quintessential Balmain and sat here head over heels for the vast majority of looks. The devil is in the detailing and I've lost count of how many looks I've zoomed in on." [vogue28]
"I enjoyed the show and it's a great collection for Balmain. Olivier showed a bit more restraint than usual." [reese06]
"I like the nod to Christophe Decarnin's Balmain." [lightblue]
See all the looks from the Balmain collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Giambattista Valli
"Probably his most hideous and chaotic collection." [Koibito]
"I need an insulin shot after this...so sweet it makes me feel bad!" [jeanclaude]
"A mess and a half, the clothes are already some of the cheapest looking he's shown and the styling takes this to Rio Fashion Week levels of blandness. So many looks and so little taste or inspiration." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Giambattista Valli collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Loewe
"This is my favorite collection of this PFW. Love every single look. Jonathan Anderson always captures the perfect balance of high concept and commerce with Loewe." [THD96]
"I love this new direction for Loewe, quite futuristic, also one of the best collections of his for Loewe to date. This is extremely chic and well executed, the tailoring, the shape cut, the fabric, everything works." [dontbeadrag]
"This collection made me cry a little bit. Absolutely amazing, the show of the season for sure." [helmutnotdead]
See all the looks from the Loewe collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Ann Demeulemeester
"This does not bode well." [Machinegumm]
"The styling makes it look like a diffusion line trying to copy from Yohji Yamamoto." [jeanclaude]
"At this point they should just close this." [RedSmokeRise]
See all the looks from the Ann Demeulemeester collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Rick Owens
"I just love when Rick Owens does dresses and this was no exception! I will say this again, I would love him to do haute couture!" [WAVES]
"The cut-out dresses are nice, mostly because I can see a glimmer of what people love about Rick...which is sexy, subtle draping." [SophiaVB]
"I love this, it's not as strong as his Spring 2020 collection (one of my favorite collections of the past decade) and maybe not very original, but I love when he takes on more traditional 'elegant' dresses." [mistress_f]
See all the looks from the Rick Owens collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Schiaparelli
"I don’t like this frankly. The stripes, the gold, the denim bedazzle, the color abundance, this is circus in the worst way possible combined with a rather surreal style of the brand. Kitsch and not in a good way at all." [dontbeadrag]
"Given the amazing archive of Schiaparelli, please call John Galliano and send Daniel Roseberry to Mugler if that's what he aspires to!" [JohannesL]
See all the looks from the Schiaparelli collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Saint Laurent
"I've always loved Anthony Vaccarello for YSL and this is no exception." [MyNameIs]
"Perfection! Absolutely loved it yet another extremely strong, confident and sexy collection from Vaccarello. A firm PFW highlight without a shadow of a doubt." [vogue28]
"I absolutely love it! Even if it's just about Saint Laurent's archives seen through Vaccarello's looking glass, this collection is so unapologetically sexy and focused at the same time." [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Saint Laurent collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Balenciaga
"The collection is...the same Balenciaga collection shown every season. But this one is particularly lazy..." [Marc10]
"Repulsive. This is why I think brands should be either renamed or closed after their founder's death." [avonlea002]
See all the looks from the Balenciaga collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Miu Miu
"This feels directional and super focused." [Norden]
"It's one of the best, funniest and well-executed collections of Miu Miu in seasons. Miuccia had fun doing it and we can see that! Love, love, love." [Olaffo]
"Best Miu Miu show in ages indeed! If I was a 16-year-old teenager with dirty rich parents, I’d make them buy me a lot of this." [dodencebt]
See all the looks from the Miu Miu collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Isabel Marant
"The very definition of 'dated' in all its splendor!" [jeanclaude]
"I remember a few years ago being inside an Isabel Marant store and it all looked very chic and expensive. Apart from a few pieces, this collection does not give the same impression." [WAVES]
"Same looks but in different colors/prints every season." [guimon]
See all the looks from the Isabel Marant collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Lanvin
"I love this, Bruno Sialelli just got everything right. The show helped to elevate this collection." [THD96]
"Great collection, stunning dresses. I liked the Batman pieces, too. Color palette is fantastic." [gossiping]
"I think that this collection finally reconciles the vision he tries to portray in his campaigns and what’s going on in the shows. This is the direction he should follow. I really like this collection." [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Lanvin collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Stella McCartney
"All been done before and done better by others." [tctra]
"Cut-outs? For summer? Groundbreaking..." [maimon]
"Too close to Adidas by Stella. I could also live without the Jean Paul Gaultier knitwear pieces. Hope Stella will get rid of that sporty vibe next season." [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Stella McCartney collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Courrèges
"I really liked this collection and I think it’s very much in the spirit of Courrèges. Young, fresh and with edginess..." [WAVES]
"Spectacular. That's how I'd describe this show. It was extremely simple yet striking with the set and soundtrack. When it comes to the clothes, Nicolas Di Felice knows perfectly what he's doing at the house and his confidence is more and more visible." [perhydrol]
"I really liked this! Minimal, futuristic, sexy and glamorous." [disco54]
See all the looks from the Courrèges collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Raf Simons
"His whole aesthetic is so predictable, dry, boring...meaningless." [dior_couture1245]
"I think Raf is cutting immense corners everywhere. The oversized volumes are played out and there is a lack of experimentation in the fabrics which I expect from him." [Norden]
See all the looks from the Raf Simons collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Acne Studios
"Absolutely loved this show, loved the set, so many great pieces." [gossiping]
"This collection surprised me and in the best way possible! Great vibe and pieces." [VogueDisciple93]
"There are actually interesting garments...they'd be nice to spice up a more conventional look." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Acne Studios collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Rochas
"This is what happens when companies give more importance to nepotism than to talent: an aristocratic disaster." [jeanclaude]
"Being this delusional should be a crime. This collection is just so tragic, full of unnecessary details and silhouettes." [perhydrol]
"This brand will never be free from the beautiful and haunting ghost of Olivier Theyskens. Just close it." [dior_couture1245]
See all the looks from the Rochas collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Yohji Yamamoto
"I sigh and gasp." [Not Plain Jane]
"I am obsessed with the necklines and straps in the collection. So much thought behind each of these pieces. Oh to be a fly on the wall of Yohji’s studio." [Fulton St Critique]
"Great workmanship on a no-nonsense catwalk. Honestly, when the final three dresses came out with the music change I sort of teared up." [RedSmokeRise]
See all the looks from the Yohji Yamamoto collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Koché
"Some fabrics look cheap, did they consult Christian Siriano to find out his suppliers?" [YohjiAddict]
"The luxurious set makes the collection look cheap as hell. It feels like a bunch of hobos entered a grand hotel looking for some spare coins..." [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Koché collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Olivier Theyskens
"It’s so fabulous that I just f*cking can’t." [helmutnotdead]
"Theyskens reminding us why he still deserves to be around. Masterful work that is leaps and bounds above what most of the Instagram designers are showing. Absolutely magical." [WinstonH2O]
"Easily my favorite of the season and love the simplicity of presentation. The clothes even look fabulous on the mannequin, which puts all the major fashion houses to shame given their enormous budgets on the set but barely-there creativity." [JohannesL]
See all the looks from the Olivier Theyskens collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Comme des Garçons
"Rei Kawakubo always says she is looking for something totally new and different, never seen before...well, the shock factor here is gone (at least for me)... Would like her to actually make wearable clothes." [jeanclaude]
"The intellectual set have really just resorted to masking a woman's body in balloon-shaped, brightly colored blankets and calling it a day. I don't see the genius I once saw..." [TianCouture]
"I am glad I am not the only one feeling fatigued by the same old, same old each season." [Fulton St Critique]
See all the looks from the Comme des Garçons collection.
Image: Courtesy
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HIT: Dries Van Noten
"You won't find a more colorful, vibrant and optimistic show this season!" [Ruito]
"He’s one of the few I always long to watch during PFW and once again he didn’t disappoint. So many gorgeous items, such richness." [WAVES]
See all the looks from the Dries Van Noten collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Nina Ricci
"How basic to think a sea-themed collection equals fishing nets, fin bags, diving caps, scuba tailoring stolen from Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière... It's just as lousy as I expected..." [YohjiAddict]
"The fin bags look like beach toys sold in any random bazaar." [jeanclaude]
"No idea how Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh are still here. Every collection has been disastrous, Nina Ricci became utterly irrelevant. Let's move on and try to salvage the house." [Marc10]
See all the looks from the Nina Ricci collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: Issey Miyake
"This is so elegant, I love the colors!" [Not Plain Jane]
"Very cool collection, that coolness of knowing you have nothing to prove, the looping knits have just the right amount of risk and the rest is just so down-to-earth without being pedestrian." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Issey Miyake collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Hermes
"Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is the most uninspiring designer ever." [dior_couture1245]
"It’s such a nonevent." [Norden]
"She's never even moved beyond Phoebe Philo's first Celine show, it's just so uninspiring... " [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Hermes collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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HIT: AZ Factory
"This warmed my heart." [susseinmcswanny]
"The tears started when the Lanvin parachute dress walked out and they didn't stop. What an exceptional celebration of one of the most talented and treasured designers of our lifetime." [StylishCynic]
"So many great looks that paid respect to Alber. I thought designers like Jonathan, Nicolas, Tomo, Donatella and Olivier really tied in their brand’s vision with Alber’s signature style..." [dodencebt]
See all the looks from the AZ Factory collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Coperni
"From such a strong collection last season to now this." [Nomar]
"What a weird and desperate-looking collection, feels like a watered-down Jacquemus collection." [GERGIN]
"I still have a problem with the second incarnation of Coperni because every time I see their show, there's something wrong with silhouettes or fabrics. And this time the fabrics look really cheap." [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Coperni collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Ottolinger
"The tiresome, unskilled, uninspired and unnecessary plundering of Helmut Lang by way of AliExpress continues." [Phuel]
"Those swimsuits are hideous... Burn it all." [YohjiAddict]
"More cut-outs than any apparel section at a cheap sex shop." [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Ottolinger collection.
Image: Imaxtree
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MISS: Ludovic de Saint Sernin
"Incredibly tacky. Dion Lee does this so much better." [Nomar]
"Ludovic's vision is so narrow that there's no evolution in his work. Season after season he's been showing almost the same stuff." [perhydrol]
"This isn't sexy. It's pathetic. Everything is clearly poorly executed with poor details..." [IloveDiorHomme]
See all the looks from the Ludovic de Saint Sernin collection.
Image: Imaxtree
